Nana Plaza in Bangkok

Nana Plaza highlights

Walking down Soi 4 from Sukhumvit Road, you'll know you're approaching Nana Plaza when you spot the line of street vendor carts preparing an array of weird and wonderful bites. These include som tum (spicy green papaya salad), kai tod (charcoal-grilled chicken) and fried insects, among other odd delicacies – comfort food for the bargirls who mostly hail from Thailand's northeastern Isaan Province.

Nana Entertainment Plaza

Greeting you when you pass beneath the monstrous 'Nana Entertainment Plaza' entrance sign is a mass of glowing neon signs, yelling at you from all directions. Shouting even louder than the neon is the intriguing cast of upfront characters who will try and accost you. Despite appearances, it's all light-hearted and unthreatening.

The ground floor are mostly open-air beer bars, while the shows and the go-go bars like Lollipop and Red Lips are located on the 1st floor. The staff here will step into your path and will try to drag you in for a look with a wicked laugh.

Ascend the escalator to the 1st floor and it's mostly go-go bars. These include Spanky's, Angewitch, and Fantasia A Go Go. Rainbow 4 is one of the biggest, with a busy mix of westerners and Japanese spectators. G-Spot, Cassanova and Temptations are among the most popular for their dazzling ladyboy shows. Angel Witch, on the left, with its rock theme shows is also a big hit. A lot of thought and energy clearly goes into the costumes and performances here.

If you prefer a relatively calm evening in Nana Plaza, head for Big Dogs bar on the left corner of the entrance. This is a humble watering hole, with beers and a raised terrace view onto the street and alleyway.